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The word "cafe" stuck in all the languages in its French form and pronunciation. The word caught on something and do a cafe and have remained a uniquely-Paris, where the cafe is not the "establishment" as a way of life. In true Parisian cafe everyone knows each other, if not personally, then at least by sight, so the "outsider" will notice right away. You will feel a wary glance at the waiter and dumb question in this view: how, for how long. However, in the Parisian cafes in the tourist area of this forget – they are the same Parisian, as they flooded the motley crowd of foreigners.
In Paris, the foundation "kafeynoy" community laid the social, literary, political connections, turned the cafe in the sights and places of worship. They gather like-minded people – to talk about her and be among friends.
Another difference between the French cafe – it's food, or rather its presence. The French seem to confuse the concepts of "cafe" and "bar", so the cafe is not satisfied with a cup of coffee with the morning paper, and lunch and dinner.
The cafe does not come just to talk, they come to live. In the 20s, when the heating system in the city left much to be desired, basking in the cafe. And the poorer the people were, the longer he sat at the table. Sit, even ordering a cup of coffee, you can at least close to, no one would drive, no one will be surprised. It is this feature of the times and all conspicuous in the "Feast," Hemingway and all, and always envied.
In contrast to – once we remembered the old Hem – from the U.S., the organization of space in the French cafe as if she holds the visitor. This is not "gone-bite" nose to nose with a bartender, if not standing there, a French cafe is arranged as a theater. Tables turned "face" to the street, if not put to the pavement. Visitors looking at passers-by and passers-by – visitors who did not mind that half the town aware of the contents of their plates.
For a long time, to be precise, from the turn of the XVII and XVIII centuries, nearly all the Parisian cafes were located in the boulevards, which, however, was still in sight was not. Boulevards in the 1870 "cut through" Osman, and cafes, before the fate does not complain, now just blossomed and multiplied. Instantly their number reached almost three thousand, in other words, given the scale of the city, nearly one door led into a cafe.
Montmartre
Montmartre cafe closest to the Russian heart. They are associated with the French bohemia and American immigrants, they made us famous novels of Hemingway, but not just for us. Remember, in the words of the giver-in "Bitter Moon" by refusing to ne-chat stories about Paris: "When Hemingway to come here to sit in cafes and write – you can not, and after Henry Miller is unthinkable." But still there are those who travel.
Especially for them, start with your favorite coffee shop Heminguzya, "Closerie des Lilas" (Boulevard du Montparnasse, 171), which translated means "Lilac little farm." Say, a cafe (actually an inn) was opened on this spot in the XVII century. But the popular coffee shop was only to "Turn of the Century" by the writers, the Symbolists. Dressed all in black, "King of Poets" Paul Faure arranged within its walls the Editor of "Poetry and Prose," first, last and only representative of which was himself. He met there with their regular writers – Andre Gide and Jules Romain, as well as Baudelaire, Verlaine, Maeterlinck … the list could go on almost indefinitely.
Then the cafe was the headquarters of the Surrealists. One day, Alfred Jarry, creator of the famous "King Yubo," opened the door, drew his revolver, shot into the air all the bullets and introduced the crowd, thinking that because he attracted enough attention to their appearance, then he is regularly recited Greek poems.
Then the writer Jean-Edery Allier, a lover of hoaxes, very clear that without competent, as they say, "public relations" popular to be seen, brought here a huge company, who forgot to pay, and announced his alleged abduction, and he along with other visitors watched alarmed by the news television announcers, or suddenly declared that the government wants to kill her, and used the cafe as a refuge.
In this cafe in the 20s was a frequent visitor, Joyce, and in the 50 -? Samuel Beckett, Xe minguey wrote here, "Fiesta," Dos Passos – his trilogy "USA", Tom Wolfe mentioned it in his novel "The Time and the River" … Although, if we fix all the references, our story will never end.
In another part of the Boulevard Montparnasse, next door to each other are not less than four legendary cafe. First of all, "Le Rotonde" (House N105) is one of the oldest Parisian cafe, where in 1903 a young Gabrielle Chanel sang folk songs under the storm of applause and shouts of "Co-coco", where she met the wealthy businessman Etienne Balzanom, then to live with him in the aristocratic and sew a Vichy suits with small caps, not only to distinguish it from the rich courtesan, but her face and became a modern fashion.
"The Rotunda" could become a museum of European avant-garde – Picasso, Kandinsky, Modigliani sitting at adjacent tables with the famous, but then still no known anarchists and revolutionaries, from which we will mention only Lenin and Krasin.
In the mid-20's place, "Rotunda" in the "cultural space" in Paris took a nearby "Cafe du Dome" (Home 108). According to one legend, the leader of a golden youth, American-born Parisian, Laurence Vail quarreled with the waiter, "Rotunda" and dragged on for an offense of all visitors to the "Home", and those of solidarity or of laziness out there and stayed. However, this legend is close to his heart but his first wife, the infamous Peggy Guggenheim, and all others have a different, more democratic, in which the manager, "Rotunda" is not only ordered the waiters to serve not sitting on the porch without a cap and kurivshuyu young woman, and asked her to leave . In protest, followed her all the regulars are gone.
"House" was also a refuge for the Russian revolution in the face of Lenin and Trotsky, also open their hospitable doors of Marriage and Modigliani. However, it is primarily the most American of all American Left Bank cafes. He was called "a cheap reissue bar" Ritz. "Only descended from trains and ships of tourists since the Great Depression proved instantly on its doorstep – it was for them, and Information Agency, and the exchange of labor, employment agencies and apartments, and who knows what else.
Sinclair Lewis dropped in here to make an impression on novice writers. Henry Mencken, in his review praised the book Hemingway's "Today" as written in the "low-cost manner Cafe" House. "
Face of the cafe in the 20s there was a certain Harold Steers, drunken American journalist who became famous, finally, only because of "Fiesta" Hemingway, where he served as a prototype for at least one colorful character.
Steers played at the races and drink, take a loan from his many compatriots and drink again, never gave the debts, but was not of anger, but only tenderness. F. Scott Fitzgerald recalled how once, when faced with the Steers in the "House", he was filled to such a pity that once offered a way to make money. Together they sketched the letter on behalf of the Steers, titled it "Why am I in Paris, always poor," and allegedly sent to Fitzgerald. He sold the letter to his agent, for $ 100, which in those days was quite good, and the money he gave to his ne'er-do friend who brought down instead of being grateful to him all his anger – the sum seemed small.
"Le Select" (House 99) has earned its popularity by being open around the clock, in the 20s was a huge plus. That's why he can be proud of the largest number of drives in the police stations drunken celebrities, among whom was repeatedly mentioned by Hemingway, who chose this cafe is not just for the night get-togethers, but for the sobering morning and remembered here unshaven and rumpled. Once confronted here with the guardians of order, and Isadora Duncan, find out the relationship with a journalist, an American who dared to declare impartiality of the trial of Sacco and Vanzetti.
"Le Coupole" (House 102) came into being in 1927 on the site of a coal warehouse, its walls painted with Surrealists and the famous Maria Vasilyeva. This cafe is famous for its democratic, inexpensive food, and located in the basement ballroom. Here, Elsa Triolet, restless restless sister, Lili Brik, met Louis Aragon. Here, Henry Miller, at the time of the Paris begging, trying to pay for a dinner engagement ring. Here, however, much later, sat up, though for different tables, two idols of the Soviet intelligentsia – Gabriel Garcia Marquez and Francoise Sagan.
Saint-Germain
The center of this district is the area in front of the church of Saint-Preux Zhermende, where there are two famous cafes – "Mago De De" and "Flower."
Decorated in the Chinese style "Cafe des Deux-Magots" (house of 170 on the Boulevard Saint-Germain) has long been a kind of "literary salon" – it has met with publishers, writers, supposedly by accident … Many still budding writers often hoarded ill-fated 110 and there was just such a price aperitif glasses in this cheap, by the standards of the last century, a cafe – one visit could change the destiny.
At the beginning of the century this cafe Rimbaud and Verlaine was chosen, and then they were replaced by the surrealists. Breton and Artaud's writings handed down verdicts are his followers, Aragon wrote literary manifestos. Who lived near a writer and literary critic Jean Cassou perceived as an extension of the café's own apartment, and if not watched the scene from a window in it, then he sat at a table, and out of the window, in turn, watched by his wife, who was watching "the literary process ".
Located across from the house, "De Mago" "Cafe de Flore" has a turbulent history: in the beginning of the century there were going to nationalists and antidreyfusary, then they were replaced by artists, including Natalia Goncharova and Mikhail Larionov, and Marina Tsvetaeva, who wrote an essay on Goncharova, went to collect the material is here. In the 30th French cafe chosen Germans, and during the occupation of his regular customers have become members of the Resistance and the existentialists, Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir, Juliette Greco, Boris Vian played here on the tube ..
"Brasserie Lipp" (House 151, boulevard Saint-Germain) was founded in 1870 by refugees from Alsace, which was reached in Germany as a result of the Franco-Prussian War. This cafe is considered the best literary salon in Paris, for which he was master in 1958 received the Order of the Legion of Honor, the highest award of the country. Along with writers, and here and there have been Saint-Exupery, and Hemingway, who mentioned about this cafe in "Festival, which is always with you", and Romain Gary, who came here from the house on foot along the street of the Holy Fathers and seen by one of the regulars on the eve of suicide – it had a cafe in the heart of policy-makers. Charles Erno, radical and socialist mitteranovsky defense minister and personal friend, a member of the Soviet, Bulgarian and Romanian intelligence services, regularly lunched here with Mitterrand, and other cafes are not recognized, and after one of the breakfast came to his side, completely forgetting about his former "ally "Mendes-France.
The Latin Quarter
Apparently, this is the first Parisian café "Le Procope", an open Sicilian Francesco Procopio in 1675 According to another version, it is not first, but it was another first – the brainchild of an Armenian named Pascal, who had gone bankrupt, and try his luck in London and this is the Procopio appeared only ten years later, and it happened as it is in the 1702 difference in twenty-five years a small thing, especially since "Prokop" in its place so far, on the Rue de FosseSen Germain, nyneryudel'Ansen -Comedy, 13. Cafes and used to be quite decent, but now so completely gorgeous new owners restored it under the old and the walls adorned with portraits of famous visitors, Robespierre, Lincoln, Voltaire, Danton, Marat, Jefferson, Franklin, Diderot and d'Alembert. And they say that here on the night of the premiere of "The Marriage of Figaro" in April 1784, fought with the excitement of Beaumarchais, waiting for the glory or failure.
In "Cafe de la Marie", in the house at eight dance of Saint-Sulpice, was a frequent visitor who lived near Faulkner, zahazhival there and Anatole France, and in 1951, is considered, this is where there was a well-known, split the two, the French intelligentsia, Camus quarrel and Sartre.
The right bank
On the right bank boulevards relate memories of the most conservative "literary" cafes of the past. From many were left alone so that the memories of the stones in the walls of their peers, homes.
Thus, in the house 32 on the boulevard was once a cafe Puasoner "Brebant", where the brothers Goncourt gave his famous literary dinners, and the head of the natural school Emile Zola invited his supporters to dine with natural beef.
However, much more famous and, in today's terms, a landmark in the XIX century was the "Cafe de Paris", which is located on the corner of Boulevard and the streets Tetbu Italians (Building 1). Cook enjoyed the cafe of the Parisian bohemia huge popularity and was famous for his ability to elevate the most banal dishes. Sam Alexander Dumas was eating veal is cooked in a pot three times a week.
In 1856, the "Cafe de Paris" was closed, and his fame went to the nearby "Cafe Anglais," the high white building with a labyrinth of corridors and lots of living rooms and private rooms on different floors. At noon, the halls were full of stockbrokers and bankers, who studied at the breakfast table stock quotes and stock newsletters. By lunchtime lull ceased business, and all the guests down to the cellar, where they drank wine, delivered by a special railway station on the tables. In the evening turned into a bacchanal cellar grotto, adorned with innumerable bunches of grapes hanging from the pillars, arches and niches.