The Discreet Charm of Camembert

» Posted by Alexander McCarnery in France Sights

I

people engaged in animal husbandry, they had to think about how to keep milk

the long term. And from yogurt and cottage cheese before – one step.

However, it is very important. Cheeses made everywhere except the Far North and

hot tropics. And every country is famous for its achievements.

Haprimer, in Italy it is "gorgontsola", "parmidzhiano" and "mozzarella", in

Holland – "Adam," all sorts of varieties of "Gouda", "mimolett" in England

- "Cheshire" in Greek – "feta." All transfer is impossible.

What to say about France, the true country of cheese, where only

registered, that is officially authorized to sell (and there

still a lot of home) – More than 300 varieties. For France, the cheese – it is

an integral part of its history and culture, comparable perhaps only to

wine, literature and philosophy. Therefore, cheese-making official

supported by the state, falsification of cheese are strictly punished, and

promotion of French cheeses to foreign markets is not considered

only as an economic factor but also as an extension of the French

culture. However, there are difficulties with the latter. Most of these

French cheese made from unpasteurized milk, so

Americans are afraid of death any Forest infection (especially overseas),

still prohibit the sale to the general French cheeses to the "Homeland

Brave. "

Merry King Henry IV sent as a gift of love

its many cheeses passion. Hapoleon Bonaparte, apparently,

so fond of cheese, that he had asked his wife, Josephine de Beauharnais, not

much of a wash before he would return from the Egyptian campaign. A

cunning Talleyrand consistently changed the three regimes, cheese

remained loyal: selling winners France in the Congress of Vienna, he

however, came into violent dispute with the Austrian Chancellor

Metternich, and still convinced him that any Austrian, German and, of

moreover, the Russian cheeses can not be called and those close to the brie,

Camembert and Roquefort.

So, take an incredible attempt to describe the almost infinite

the universe of French cheeses.

All of them are divided into five "families" (it should, however, take into account

that are intermediate between the families of creation). The first "family" -

a cheese with "fresh flesh" (pates fraiches). The second – "melted"

(Pates fondues). The third – the "cooked flesh" (pates cuites).

Fourth – cheese with a "soft flesh" (pates molles). The fifth "family" -

to "mold" (pates persillees).

Cheese made from cow's, goat's and sheep's milk, but there are

and prepared from mixtures of various proportions. The quality of cheese depends on the

cooking traditions, climate, animal breeds and food, which they

eat. Therefore, to make the same cheese in another place it is simply impossible.

Camembert can only be Norman, brie occur only

Ile-de-France (region around Paris), Cantal – Auvergne from, and con -

of Franche Comte, the French Alps. So read carefully

label.

Also, if you're hitting France, want to try

really good cheese (in other countries, too, are sold

French cheeses, but 99% of cases it is not), do not buy them

supermarkets. Better – in specialized "fromageries", especially

those on the doors are marked "fromageur affineur" (which means

that the owner not only sells well-chosen cheeses, but also owns

the art of "bring" them). It will cost you more, but you will

guarantee that you buy this "fromage fermier" -

peasants, not industrial. In addition, syrotorgovets sell

you are the cheese in perfect condition for use, with pleasure

advise what is the best cheese of the month, as it is to serve and

what wine to accompany.

By the way, usually in a good cheese shops and plentiful wine

basement. At last, as in all areas of French cheeses are different,

good selection of cheeses will allow you, for some the gift of imagination,

make a gourmet journey from the damp green fields Hormandii

through the high mountain valleys of Savoie and Jura to the going down to the azure sea

the hills of Provence.

Now – some of the most common and characteristic

representatives of the "five families".

Camembert (Camembert). Hormandii comes from the best – of

Department of Pays d'Auge. Perhaps the most "popular" French cheese that

prevents it from being quite sophisticated. It belongs to the family of "soft".

Made from raw cow's milk. It has a white wrinkled crust

lightly speckled reddish spots and cream-colored elastic

pulp, which in any case should not be dried. Round,

diameter of 15 – 20 inches, sold usually in plywood

boxes.

Brie (Brie). There are several varieties – Brie de Coulomiers,

Brie de Meaux, de Melun. At last, just Coulumiers. Comes from

Ile-de-France. "Soft" is made from cow's milk, raw.

It is a cake 30 – 60 centimeters in diameter and thickness

3 – 5 inches, a little "fluffy" and reddish rind, under

which is cream-colored soft, almost fluid mass.

This cheese has been known in Russia as early as the time of Pushkin, and was called

"Living cheese" – precisely because of the consistency of the mass, which is so

Tender, which should flow, but for some reason does not. The then

1. leaven Patriots called him "maggoty" complete nonsense and that the
2. evidence of their inability to distinguish between God's gift of a piece of cake.

Muenster (Munster). Born in Alsace, too "soft." Is

from cow's milk. Round, with a diameter of about 30 centimeters, with

brownish elastic crust and a soft, yellowish flesh. One of the

most acute, "stinky" cheeses. A careful perception of smell,

however, turns into a fragrance. It's like in Polish: "wona" means

"Nice smell".

Fondue for Raza (Fondu au raisin). The representative of a fairly

a small "melting" of the family of traditional French cheeses.

Hebolshogo size, with a thin light crust, and yellow, soft, but

surprisingly thin elastic flesh, "fruity" taste. In the crust and

sometimes in the flesh interspersed juicy raisins.

Comte (Comte). It comes from the Jura mountains, glorious, so

not only blunt toothed reptiles three-storey development. One of the most

Representatives of the glorious cheese "Gruyere", better known in our

under the name "Swiss cheese". There also are Emmental and Beaufort.

Good Conte, however, surpasses them all, and fruity taste, and

amazing amber color, and quality of the hole – the size of a walnut

nut. Speaking of "fruitiness": cheese factories in the Alps, not without reason called

"Fruiteries" – cheeses from this region actually differ in some

amazing fruit and nutty flavor not found anywhere else.

Conte refers, of course, to the "cooked" and is made from cheese

red alpine milk the cows, fed on mountain meadows.

Kankuayott (Cancoillotte). Also "cooked", also from the Franche-Comte.

Interesting because it is made from milk with the addition of white wine and

oil, one of the most low-fat varieties. It has a yellow myakostyu

greenish tint, and is used in a heated, in the mouth begin to

flickering images of green valleys dotted with flowers and a framed

snow-capped mountains.

Now, a few cheeses that are not in the "five families", but without

cheese which life is impossible.

Hante (Nantais). Made from cow's milk, comes from

Brittany. To make it, apply the process of "pressing".

It has a smooth yellow rind and soft pulp mazeobraznoy very

soft – albeit with a rather pungent smell – taste. The same type

rebloshon cheese and September-nectar.

The same "pressed" Cheese – Cantal (Cantal). This is – the product

Auvergne, in the old days one of the poorest and most backward regions of France,

where, except for the mountains, sheep, cows and small vineyards, nothing

was. However, the poor overnyaty in the Middle Ages, for lack of bread

fed on chestnuts and hunted drovosechestvom, later became

legislators culinary fashion in France. And now their cheese

intended for long storage, has become a necessary part of

French gastronomy. This is – a solid, no holes, with a dark yellow

pulp cheese, salty, spicy and surprisingly tasty.

Now about the "fresh" cheese. Most of them come from

obalstey southern countries and are often made from sheep's or goat's milk:

on the dry hills of the Mediterranean to feed the cows is not easy.

Brochchio (Broccio) – Corsican. Made from heated and

whipped unsalted sheep's milk. Hemnogo like cheese or

mozzarella, but much softer. Unfortunately, can not be stored for a long time.

Goat and sheep milk is made, and many famous

"Soft" cheeses. Here are some of them.

SHABEESH (Chabichou). Goat cheese is cylindrical in shape, small

size comes from the Poitou. He has enough hard pulp and

slightly moldy crust. Growing up, it dries and becomes slightly

very thin, tangy flavor.

Valyanse (Valencay). Goat cheese, too, from the vicinity of the city

Valyans, territories, where I came from Rabelais. He – a pyramid-shaped, with white

acute pulp and crust, sprinkled with ashes. In general, the cheeses in the

ash are quite common: ash not only protects the cheese from

premature aging, but also makes eating cheese acute senses,

troubled by the thought of the impermanence of things.

Banon (Banon) prigotavlyaemy from sheep's milk. Small,

dense, rounded, harsh, and tangy, with all its

softness – in general, this Provencal. Sale gently

wrapped in chestnut leaves, which protects it from heat.

And finally, "Mouldy" cheeses. Yes, of course, green, blue,

blue veins – it is mold, but mold is noble, protecting

cheese and give it a unique flavor and aroma.

All, of course, know roguefort. Ho now overnsky Roquefort,

prepared from sheep's milk and aged in the natural

caves, has little to do with local imitations, or even French

ersatz in polyethylene, available in supermarkets. This cheese,

probably one of the oldest in France, must be

very soft, in any case does not fall apart in the aggregate, its crust

should be moist but not sliznevatoy. Then you will experience and

delight of the most complicated, pepper-grass flavor of this cheese.

Another "persillee" – is Bleu de Coss (Bleu des Causses),

originating from the district Rouergue in Aquitaine. Many put it, thanks

"Creaminess" of his flesh, in the category of "soft" cheeses. However, the sharpness

taste and an abundance of bright blue veins still bring it to the

aristocratic family "moldy."

And one of the most bizarre, is an amateur, cheeses, from the group

"Fourmes", all of which came from Auvergne, and from the south. These cow cheeses are

fat, have a strong bitter taste and smell of the cellar. Mold

they malachite color, and covered with a crust

brownish-red and greenish spots, just jasper. I'm sure there are

these cheeses anywhere except on the cool terrace Provence

house on a hot day with a glass of cold rose wine -

meaningless.

And keep silence that was not understood – about the goat and sheep cheeses

soaked in flavored olive oil, on the cheese, aged in

grape moonshine, a cheese, dried fish with. Me

Suffice it to mention earlier.

Sometimes the French eat cheese before a meal. Ho traditional "cheese

dish "(plateau des fromages) served in the late afternoon, along with

fruit, coffee and cognac in front. Cheese should be removed from the

cooler hours of 2 – 3 to feed and posted, it is desirable to

a large wooden dish. In order not to flood the apartment symphony

odors can cover up to a glass cover. The center serves

fit softer around the edges – a hard cheese. It's desirable

submit more knives to not interfere with the taste of different cheeses. And different

types of bread – the usual white, oatmeal, "the village". With some

cheeses are wonderful apples, pears, prunes and nuts.

Of course, the consumption of cheese is not limited to eating in

kind. The French know a lot of recipes for cooking

with cheese – all kinds of "fondu", blue cheese salad with a hot,

various casseroles with soft cheeses or "Gruyere", or steak with

blue cheese.

What to drink with cheese? Contrary to established opinion, not necessarily

red wine. Often, much better is rich sweet white and

sometimes a dessert wine. And do not "snob" – served with cheese

best wine taste and a high order, and the other can be mutually

destroyed.

French pediatricians are advised to acquaint children with the cheeses with the

age of three months. And not to gain weight, and

to their taste buds have evolved so that they grow from infancy

these Frenchmen.